Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

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JohnW
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Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

Post by JohnW » Tue May 29, 2012 6:00 pm

I ordered some new switches for my G25 and they arrived today. I'm going to try and install them in the next day or two. If possible, I'll document the steps and take pictures. The switches are from Mouser Electronics ( mouser.com ) .
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JoshJ81
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Re: Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

Post by JoshJ81 » Tue May 29, 2012 7:20 pm

Yes, pictures please!
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JohnW
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Re: Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

Post by JohnW » Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:23 pm

I'm going to need to order slightly different switches. The size was perfect, the switch lever looked just the same, but, the three pins that solder onto the board were twice as wide and flat, rather than simple round legs. I found if the switch can not go completely flat, when you install it, there isn't room for the paddle to not be pressing the button. So, hopefully, Honeywell has the same switch with different legs. The other thing different was the amount of pressure needed to depress the switch. The new ones were a little lighter. This might make them quicker to change gears or too easy to accidentally press.

Stay tuned.
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JohnW
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Re: Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

Post by JohnW » Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:39 pm

I got some other switches. I should have time before the next race to put them in.
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JohnW
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Re: Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

Post by JohnW » Tue Aug 14, 2012 6:43 pm

After slacking off for a long time, I got around to swapping out 1 switch, that was the one that seemed to auto shift on me. It fit perfectly and it works fine. The ONLY thing I would like to have changed is that this switch is easier to push than the original. It also clicks a little quieter. By using a kitchen scale, I found the original switch took about 80 grams of pressure to get the click and the new ones only 40 grams. I'm going to do our next race with only one new switch installed for a longer test.

I'll post some picture and a write up as soon as I can.
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JohnW
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Re: Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

Post by JohnW » Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:00 pm

I've got the shots, I just need to resize them so it doesn't load slow on the web page. I'm going to give the steps and details now and stick the pictures in once they're loaded up.

The hardest part is finding the part for the paddle shifter switches. They need to be the right kind of switch and the right size or they won't fit. The switches I got fit perfectly.

Go to Mouser.com and search for their part number : 611-ZMA00A150L04PC , or click on this link. G25 switch. I know things change on the web so hopefully, by the time you read this, the link is not dead. It's a C&K part # ZMA00A150L04PC. Get two if you need to replace both, of course. They are about $3.00 each.

Next, you need to be able to solder stuff and have a soldering iron with a pencil style tip. Not the flat thick ones that simple electronics stores often sell. The solder spots on the board the switches are attached to are rather small. If you haven't any experience doing this, find someone who has or look it up online and practice a bit first. You don't want to melt stuff that shouldn't be or break the board. I doubt Logitech will sell you a new one, if you do.

I find removing solder is best done with either a "solder sucker" or with soldering wick. Sucker or Wick. You should be able to Google how to use them. It's not hard. I prefer the sucker method. It's faster.

You will also need an Allen wrench. I used a 5/32 one. It could be metric, which would be a 4mm. A small # 2 Phillips will be needed to remove one screw. Of course a small amount of solder too.

Here are the steps. ( Which should be made clear by the pictures, when I upload them. )

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1) Remove the 6 Allen screws from the face of the wheel.

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2) Remove the cover plate those screws held on the wheel. Leave the center emblem alone. Nothing is behind it.

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3) Carefully remove the wheel from the hub, but keep it supported because there are wires still attached. For this repair you don't need to remove any of them, but it will mean you need to be CAREFUL not to jerk them out of the hub if you let the wheel go all over the place.

4) In the center of the hub is the circuit board that holds the paddle switches and has the connections for the two buttons on the wheel. They have a locking style plug that needs three hands or a special tool to remove, I think, which is why after trying to wiggle them free, I left the wheel connected. Right in the middle is a black screw. Hold some pressure on the board and remove the screw. It's going to have some pressure on it from the paddles, so keep a finder pressing on it while removing the screw or you might not see where it goes.

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5) On the back of the circuit board are the paddle switches. Down in the hub are the actual bits that press the switches. At this point, you need to consider if you NEED to replace the switches. Are the paddles pushing them down and making the switch work ? If you hear clicking, while using the wheel, but no gears change, it's probably the switch. If you don't hear a faint click while shifting it may be the paddle isn't hitting the arm on the switch. Try carefully, while holding the black part of the switch, bend the arm upward with some needle nosed pliers. Just a mm or two is probably all you need. Put the board back in and try the paddle again. Hear a click ? Put it back together and try it out. There is also the chance that the switch no longer clicks when you push on the arm. Check that with a finger. No click means no work.

6) Try to get the wheel and board in a position that you can work on the board. The first time, I used a short 2 X 4 to hold the wheel up and support the board. ( See the picture. )The second time I did this, I was able to find a spot that worked without it.

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7) If you are only replacing one switch, you need to figure out which ONE to remove, at this point. Actually, it would have been better to figure that out before you took that center screw out. Pretend I mentioned that in step 4. You will see 3 solder points on the circuit board under the switch. Use the solder sucker to remove as much of that solder as you can. The more you leave the harder it will be to get the switch out. See my picture.

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Here is what they look like from the factory

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Here is what removing most of the solder looks like. Note I held the soldering iron sideways and turned the coating on the circuit board a bit brown. Ugly, but no issue.

8 ) With a very small , flat screw driver, put a little upward pressure on the switch by wedging it under the switch. While doing so, hit each solder spot in succession . You should feel the switch move slightly each time. Once you have done this a few times, you should be able to just pull the switch out. Be patient. Too much prying can break the board or damage the switch. Yeah, you're getting rid of it, but it comes out cleaner as a whole part.

9) Put the new switch in it's place, facing the SAME WAY, and solder the legs in place. That's best done with the bottom of the board facing UP, so the solder pools around the legs properly. I did tell you to read up on soldering before doing this , right ? With soldering, ugly, balled up, and grey is not good.

10) Put the wheel back together if you are only doing one, or repeat the last few steps if you are doing both. Note: Make sure that you have the switch ALL THE WAY in the holes, before you solder it in place. There is very little clearance to the paddle. If it is even slightly up and not flush with the circuit board, you may find the switch won't click because it's already pushed down. Another thing to keep an eye on is the wires around the board. They can get in the way of the Allen screws. Before you slide the wheel back on, make sure they are not going to be pinched.

If I haven't made something clear, please send me an e-mail.
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JoshJ81
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Re: Logitech G25 paddle shift switch repair

Post by JoshJ81 » Thu Aug 30, 2012 3:00 am

John, save them as .gif file, they load really fast.
FIHS F1 Career Stats
Updated through 2013 Round 1 at Melbourne
Starts: 108
Wins: 14
Podiums: 48
Poles: 17

2x Winner Monaco 2010, 2012

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